by C. von Arte

e went to Sonia Rose on a quiet weeknight. A well stocked, classic wooden bar with a few stools greets you as you step into this intimate, French-inspired restaurant. This former haberdashery, then pizza place, has now morphed into a narrow, high ceiling, white linen tablecloths, candlelit restaurant.

We chose the prix fixe menu: $27.00 for appetizer, main and dessert. It began with warm rolls and a delicious trio of butters: maple, raspberry and plain. The wine list is short but good. We ordered a Pinot Grigio and a Pinot Noir, at $8 – $9 per generous glass. For the amuse bouche, the chef presented a flavor packed creamed spinach and mushroom "slider" (mini brioche) which left me wanting more.

The prix fixe menu is a one page presentation of choices, with a good variety of beef, chicken, fish and veggie options. As a starter, I had a spectacular seafood and corn chowder. The shrimp were tender morsels and the diced scallops added a subtle flavor and softness to contrast with the al dente texture of the fresh corn. My companion had the fresh linguini with balsamic reduction. It was a perfect spiral of pasta.

My main course was braised short ribs with a cauliflower puree and roasted broccoli, celery root and roasted cauliflower floret, all surrounded by a deep, almost sensuous port reduction.

My companion had the pan seared salmon, which was also served with roasted vegetables. The salmon was cooked to perfection, the crust crispy and flavorful and the flesh buttery.

There were small premiums for certain dishes (some of the higher end fish and beef dishes). We paid an extra $4.00 for the dessert sampler. The desserts were good, but I was only knocked out by two samples, the vanilla ice-cream and the light-as-air chocolate cake. My companion raved about the French press fair trade coffee, and the intense lemon square.

The service was personal, and discreet – no hovering, but they were always aware of our needs. The music in the background wasn’t dissonant, but it was boring. I thought the food and the atmosphere called for Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen.

Sonia Rose is a Fine Dining experience for a great price – for less that $80.00 (plus tip) we had delicious food, good wine, a lovely atmosphere and great night out.

Sonia Rose, 74 Orchard St, (bet. Broome & Grand Streets); 212.260.5317, Dinner and Weekend Brunch